Last updated: 15 July 2023
I’m always on the lookout for a new pub to try and when the opportunity came up to share a meal with a friend and review the White Swan on Fetter Lane, I couldn’t say no.
The White Swan is situated on Fetter Lane, a short walk to London’s West End. This part of town has always been associated with printers and journalists on Fleet Street, and the law profession dominates the parallel street of Chancery Lane, which is home to Lincoln’s Inn, a thriving society of barristers situated on an impressive and immaculate estate.
With this type of business nearby, it makes sense that the White Swan would look to accommodate both after-work drinks in the bar on the ground floor and long lunches and dinners in the restaurant and chop house on the second floor.
Upon my arrival, I discovered a bustling and lively pub, popular with local workers, a rather atmospheric but snug layout with dark timber wood paneling, alongside the well stocked bar, all watched over by the resident (taxidermied) White Swan who oversees everything from above the entry door.
Upstairs is the restaurant. Easily missed if you didn’t know it was there. Here you can find a significantly quieter vibe, with well spaced tables and plenty of staff to ensure you have everything you need.
My initial thoughts on the single A4 page menu was that it’s a little light in the meat stakes for a venue that markets itself as a chophouse.
For starters, I opted for the Whitby Scampi. A light and crispy batter surrounding juicy meat served in a Staub cast iron serving dish. The homemade tartare sauce had just the right amount of crunch from the capers and tartness to compliment the scampi.
My dining companion opted for the citrus cured Scottish salmon accompanied with a dill cream cheese and some toasted rye bread. Reports are in, describing it as tasty, firm and piquant.
In a chophouse I would almost always opt for a beef steak unless there was a lamb rump on the menu. At the White Swan, my dining companion opted for the large 350g aged sirloin, served with hand-cut chips and a shallot and red wine sauce (£24).
That left me with meaty options in the chop & cuts sphere of a roast pork chop or a roasted duck breast. I opted for the latter, which came with a confit duck leg croquette, roasted plum, Savoy cabbage, and duck jus. Coming in at £14.50, I thought this was very good value, and the duck was juicy, and accompaniments were all equally moist and tasty, so much so, I promise not a morsel was left!
Mains on the menu also include British staples like Pie of the Day, Toad in the Hole, fish and chips, and of course a trusty burger which looked mighty delicious as it passed our table.
We paired our meals with a Spanish Rioja, 2016 Ortega Ezquerro to be precise (£34.50). A blend of tempranillo and grenache, notes of red fruit and licorice were detected. I found this wine to be robust with the sirloin and deliciously delicate with the duck at the same time. Medium bodied, not too much in the way of tannins which in the past has been known to give me a headache. Overall, a perfect choice in my opinion!
Dessert or Pudding as the Brits call it, was a bit of a mixed bag. Limited selection by way of a baked cheesecake (£6), lemon meringue pie (£6) or a selection of British cheeses (£9).
I opted for the Cheesecake while my dining partner opted for the savoury option of three British Cheeses; Black Cow Cheddar, a creamy Baron Bigod, and Mrs Bell’s Blue accompanied by apple chutney, and my nemesis on any cheese board, oat cakes.
I long for a cheese board that comes with a selection of crackers, and more than just three, one for each slice of cheese. This is undoubtedly a personal choice, as I feel not all cheeses are the same, therefore there is one right cracker that pairs perfectly with them all either. Let the diner choose their cracker of choice and don’t be stingy about the portion.
My dessert arrived and I shot up a few confused looks as it was placed in front of me. The menu described it as a “baked vanilla cheesecake, winter fruit compote and toasted almonds”. What I received was a deliciously creamy vanilla cheesecake that was most definitely never baked, my winter fruit compote was identical to the apple chutney on the cheeseboard, and there were no almonds in sight. Curious to know what happened, I asked the manager to suss out from the kitchen what went wrong.
I should note that the cheesecake I was served was utterly delicious, aside from the ill fitting chutney which belongs exclusively on a cheese board, I ate the lot.
The manager returned from the kitchen with a sincere apology and an incredibly rich dark chocolate ganache, paired with honeycomb and Bailey’s ice cream which is currently being considered for the next menu. It’s rich and decadent and would make a great addition to the menu, fingers crossed we see this one make a permanent appearance.
Verdict?
What I Liked:
I liked the vibe of the staff. Very friendly, also where nothing was too much trouble and they knew the menu well enough to make recommendations on their favourite dishes and wine pairings.
The duck was on point, it might be a tad rare for some people but I loved it from start to finish. I would happily return to the White Swan for another meal. The White Swan is a great option for a midweek date night or a small group of friends.
Improvements Required:
There is room for improvement in the offerings, perhaps having a smaller steak available for those unable to finish a 350g portion, I do loathe food waste afterall! Also additional varieties of cuts would be beneficial for a venue marketing itself as a chophouse. I would also welcome a fully fleshed out dessert menu with more offerings including perhaps simple ice cream as summer approaches.
The Essentials
The White Swan
Where: 108 Fetter Lane, London EC4A 1ES
Nearest Train Station: City Thameslink 8 min walk
Nearest Tube Station: Chancery Lane (Central line) 5 min walk
Price Point: ~£30 pp plus drinks
