Last updated: 15 July 2023
After the previous challenging day, exploring the quiet city of Pécs was a welcome change of pace.
Pécs is the proud owner of a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Early Christian Necropolis of Pecs which is a series of 4th century decorated underground tombs were constructed in the cemetery.
This long-established university city, carries much history. Originally occupied by Christian Romans, then the city became occupied by Ottoman empire for more than 150 years. There is a strong religious mix of Christianity, Islam and Judaism.
Once walled, Pécs was invaded by the Turks in 1540s. They demolished the city’s grand Gothic church and used the stone to build what is now one of the major landmarks of the city, the Mosque of Gázi Kászim Pasha. Located in the centre of town, this ancient relic has stood the test of time. Surprisingly, the Mosque now functions as a Roman Catholic Church.
The Padlock Wall of Pécs
Even though the city of Pécs has a rocky past, the city is filled with love. Bicycle racks are long gone and replaced with walls of lovers-locks, not dissimilar to those seen in Paris. I stumbled upon this one near the University. There wasn’t just one of these, but three! All jam packed full of locks. As I continued to wander through Pécs I noticed more and more. Some more modern than others, I saw some dating back decades all rusted at the bottom of the pile. It makes me wonder if all these people are still together or if their love, much like their padlock, has rusted over time.
Pecs Christmas Markets
In keeping with the festive theme that we’d experienced on this trip in Zagreb, Ljubljana and Vienna, the city workers of Pécs were busy erecting their Christmas markets ready for an imminent opening. Below was taken during the set up of the Christmas markets with the impressive Mosque of Gázi Kászim Pasha in the background.
Pécs is very easily accessed by train from Vienna and Budapest but this tiny city can be easily seen on foot in a day. Unfortunately for us, our visit coincided with off season and University vacation which meant the city was quiet and museums were closed or on limited hours. However, this just means that Pécs remains on our travel list as we’ll need to organise another visit in future and that’s nothing but a good thing. At the time though, it meant that we needed to bid farewell to Pécs and set forth to Budapest.
Next Stop, Budapest
The drive to Budapest was much less adventurous than our previous leg. Maps were becoming more reliable again as we drove through the maze of one-way streets that is down town Pest.
We high-fived as we secured a parking space outside our apartment and set off to check in. Only to return to a parking fine. We’d been gone less than five minutes. Long enough to tell reception, we’ve parked out the front can you let us into the garage. Another fail on the road trip. According to our receptionist, Hungarian parking police are apparently ruthless is Budapest and have no qualms about fining those illegally parked, especially those on foreign plates.
Our fine would need to be translated for us. Written In Hungarian with no indication of how to pay it, what it was for, or the implications if we didn’t pay it.
Annoyed, we set off to find dinner in an authentic Hungarian Goulash. I was livid, I’ve never been fined for something so petty. I needed something to take the edge off. Our waiter recommended Raki, aka rocket fuel.
What is Rakia (aka Raki)?
Raki, or Rakia, is an unsweetened hard fruit spirit. Often served as an aperitif, it’s very popular in Balkan countries. It smells like metho and tastes like it smells! I took two sips and that’s all I could manage. This stuff is ruthless and it sneaks up on you, so if you have some, go slow!
The Essentials
Pécs to Budapest
- Distance: 130 miles (209km)
- Driving time: 2 1/2 hours
- Driving conditions: Mainly freeway – image below
- Currency: Forint (roughly 3615 HUF = £10)
Insider tips: In the off-season, the main street of Pécs is where you’ll likely get your meals. English menus are available in most places, some staff speak English which is MUCH better than our Hungarian and we didn’t have any problems. The Mosque and Cathedral charge entry to non-worshippers.
Budapest – If you can avoid it, don’t drive in the city. Parking is hard to find, expensive and the cases of getting fined are apparently very high.
Perhaps high-fiving is indicative that something bad will happen shortly (parking fines, Border control hold-ups, car incidents). I recommend you don’t test your luck with a high-five.
