A Road Trip through the Baltics: Days 4-6

Last updated: 25 June 2023

This is the second of three posts covering Roaming Required’s Baltic road trip adventure! These three posts cover a day by breakdown of where we visited, the highlights, the challenges, and what you can expect if you decide to travel through Latvia, Lithuania, and Estonia. Spoiler alert: we loved it!

A Quick Recap

We’ve flown from London to Latvia’s capital city of Riga. Hired a car, purchased a local SIM card, explored the Old Town and learned some wonderful history. Next, we hit the road and headed north to Estonia and arrived in Parnu, the Baltic’s most popular summer getaway spot.

Our Baltic road trip adventure continues…

Day 4: Parnu to Tallinn, Estonia

The Facts:

• Start: Parnu, Estonia
• Finish: Tallinn, Estonia
• Travel Time: 2 hours 15 min
• Transport: Car
• Costs: 24hr Tallinn Card €32 pp, Food €15.30pp

The Highlights

Attractions:

The Old Town of Tallinn, Bastion Tunnels, Schnitzelhaus

Travel Tip:

We found the hotel staff across the Baltics were only too happy to oblige us by freezing our ice bricks overnight. Definitely made road tripping easier. However, a different story with some UK hotel chains…

Highlights Gallery:

Russell’s Overview:

Ok, so I know it’s not going to be a big thing for most Europeans but we awoke this morning to snowfall. It wasn’t a massive downfall but to be able to sit in the hotel breakfast table and watch the snow drift in brought a smile to our faces.

We loaded up the car, retrieved our ice bricks for our esky, and hit the road with our sights on Estonia’s capital city, Tallinn.

Our earlier adventures sharing the road with the Latvian truck drivers extended into Estonia so I made sure we stayed in the slow lane (about 90 kph / 60 mph) and allowed them to overtake us.  This turned out to be a wise decision because we lost count of the sheer number near-misses we witnessed! From overtaking on blind corners, to playing chicken with oncoming traffic, to one truck not leaving enough space to a car next to him and taking his mirror clean off!

Once we arrived in Tallinn (in one piece and unscathed) we checked into our hotel, the Park Inn by Radisson. We were greeted by a member of the team who didn’t smile, not once during the entire check in process. Not a smirk, a half smile, nothing. We needed to pay 2 days of parking in advance, in cash. A little surprising since it was an onsite hotel car park but nevertheless we paid it and checked into our room.

The weather wasn’t on our side in Tallinn, not even a little bit. It rained, a lot. But hey, even bad weather on a holiday road trip wasn’t about to dampen our spirits! We borrowed some hotel umbrella’s (deposit fee of €20 each) and headed into town.

First stop was exploring the UNESCO listed historic Tallinn Old Town.

The best thing about exploring the Old Town is that you don’t need to have a clear route in mind when you start exploring, pick a direction and start walking. Tallinn’s Old Town is one of the most well preserved in Europe, it feels like you’ve travelled through time and entered the Middle Ages. Perhaps it was because it was low season or that it was raining when we explored the cobbled laneways but the lack of people made us feel like we had the whole Old Town to ourselves…

Next stop was the Tourist Information Office where we collected our Tallinn Cards, a local tourist card which provided discount offers and deals with a variety of popular tourist attractions. Given the weather outside, we searched for something enclosed. And enclosed, we definitely found!

We made a booking for the Bastion Tunnels, located beneath the Kiek in de Kok tower, a series of 17th century underground tunnels which run beneath the city of Tallinn, originally created by the Swedish rulers as a way to easily navigate the city during times of defence. However, over the years the tunnels have been used for a variety of purposes; homeless shelter, 1980’s punk era meeting point, and nuclear fallout shelter.

We were in a group of about 30 people during the course of the tour, most of the visitors were tourists from Europe. We watched a short 5 min video at the start of the tour which might have been one of the weirdest videos I’ve ever seen, it almost felt like you needed to drop acid before watching it again. The video was narrated by an underground giant (seen below in the hat) who was covered in a black substance and explained the history of the city and its tunnels.

There were times that Roma and I looked at each other in an attempt to reassure each other that we weren’t dreaming this…it didn’t make much sense to us but it was definitely worth sitting through!

We headed into the tunnels and with our tour guide who provided a great deal of insight into the history and insight into her personal experience with the tunnels; as a former punk she had some great stories about what life was like down in the tunnels during the 1980’s punk era under communist oppression.

The tunnels were long and split into different chambers, each of the chambers displayed exhibits from bygone eras and the types of people who inhabited them.

We finished our tour about 5:30pm and realised that the majority of other exhibitions were closing as well so decided to visit the others in the morning and focus on deciding where we should have have dinner.

According to TripAdvisor the most popular restaurant in all of Tallinn was Rataskaevu16 and that it was always very busy so to make sure that you have a reservation otherwise you’re probably going to be turned away. The way we figured it, it was a Tuesday night and relatively early so we shouldn’t have an issue getting in. We were wrong. Rataskaevu16 was packed and was booked out. The staff member at reception was polite enough and gave us a recommendation of their sister restaurant Pegasus was just around the corner. However, after looking at the menu we decided to find something more to our tastes.

Enter Schnitzelhaus.

Yes, that’s right! We found a schnitzel restaurant in the middle of Tallinn and it was amazing!

Roma and I both ordered the crispy fried pork schnitzel with a stein of the local beer, Saku Originaal, which totalled about €15.00 each and it was worth every penny! Schnitzelhaus provided generous portions, an open fire, and well-functioning WiFi. It was the perfect choice for dinner.

Day 5: Tallinn, Estonia

The Facts:

• Start: Tallinn, Estonia
• Finish: Tallinn, Estonia
• Travel Time: We walked all day
• Transport: Old School aka Walking    
• Main Costs: Hotel Viru €10pp, Gelato €9

The Highlights

Attractions:

The Museum of Occupations, Hotel Viru KGB tour, Tallinn City Walls, Kiek in de Kok, and Cortile Gelato

Travel Tip:

Ladies, Roma proved during this trip that carrying a spare scarf in the backpack meant that there were no issues with last minute decisions to visit a Russian Orthodox church.

Highlights Gallery:

Russell’s Overview

First order of business was to make use of our Tallinn Cards and take a red tour bus around Tallinn but when we arrived at the bus stop we realised that we’d misread the timetable! The winter bus schedule had a reduced service so we couldn’t take the one we planned on! Bummer.

No to worry, we initiated Plan B which involved bringing forward our next item on the To See list, a visit to the Museum of Occupations.

The Museum of Occupations museum is dedicated to the occupations which took place in Estonia (and across the Baltic region) between 1939 and 1991 by the Soviet Union and Nazi German regimes.

The museum is a must-visit when in Tallinn because it provides a thorough and detailed examination of the occupations, the impacts on the lives of the Estonian people, and the ongoing impacts that can still be felt to today. As someone who was learning about this history for the first time on this road trip, I found this museum really insightful because it took great strides to ensure that the information presented was in chronological order and able to be understood by visitors.

Museum entry for those using the Tallinn Cards otherwise it’s €6 each + €2 for the audio guide. The museum contains various objects donated over the years – from household items to cars and refrigerators to spy peep holes and televisions. It’s a detailed walk through history and one I’d recommend to every visitor to Tallinn.

Needing some fresh air following a visit to the Museum of Occupations, we decided to take a stroll back through the Old Town to take photos in slighter better weather before making our way over to what was one of the absolute highlights of the entire road trip; Hotel Viru.

Hotel Viru is an ordinary looking fully-functioning hotel in downtown Tallinn, popular with business visitors and holidaymakers alike due to it’s prime location to central Tallinn. However, Hotel Viru also contained a secret, a Cold War secret. This hotel was the scene of Cold War espionage at its highest level.

Hotel Viru was the only hotel where foreign guests were allowed to stay during their visit to Soviet-controlled Tallinn during the Cold War era because this hotel was wired for sound. Hotel rooms, the restaurant, and bar areas were fitted with special listening devices which transmitted all sound to secret listening rooms located on the hotel’s unofficial 23rd floor.

For €10 per person (or €8 if you’re a hotel guest) you can visit the secret listening rooms with a tour guide who will show you the listening rooms, give you background information and detailed history about life in the hotel, show you one of the bugs and transmitters, and even point out the original ashtrays and cigarettes left behind when the communist officials fled following the fall of the Iron Curtain.

Following our walk through Soviet-era history, it was time to get some air so we headed to the Tallinn city walls and climbed one of the original remaining city walls. We used our Tallinn Cards for entry (otherwise €3 pp). The walls run about 100m in either direction from the stairwell, it doesn’t lead anywhere. It was OK, and worth doing if you’re making use of your Tallinn Cards otherwise you might not think €3 worth it. If you’re travelling with kid, the walkway is made of wood and a little questionable in places so hold on your kids when taking the walk.

Next up, we headed back to the Kiek in de Kok, a 15th century artillery tower which now houses a city museum. Once again we used our Tallinn Cards for free entry and spent the next hour walking the 6 floors to learn about the history of the city. Make sure you utilise the free lockers at the entry point to store anything you don’t want to carry up the stairs. Throughout the museum are information boards and a variety of exhibits, including a weapons throughout the ages and some a few instruments of torture. The highlight was reaching the newly renovated top floor which boasted great views, however the windows were sealed so you did need to take photos through the glass.  

As you walk through Tallinn you will see several Russian Orthodox churches, which personally I love! They look so unique and definitely something we haven’t seen too many times before during our travels so if you’re like us then take the time to go in and explore.

When we visited the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral there was a service underway so plenty of parishioners taking part in the service and tourists quiety observing from the back. Unfortunately, we weren’t allowed to take photos and although it might not be initially obvious, make sure you’re appropriately attired when visiting (Roma always carries a scarf for just such an occasion)

On our way back to the hotel we discovered Cortile gelato, it could only be described as the best gelato we’ve ever had! We went inside and spoke to the incredibly friendly owners who gave us insight into their gelato-making process and provided us multiple recommendations. I would recommend in a heartbeat!

After a long day of sightseeing, we headed back to the hotel to soak in the spa…

Day 6: Tallinn to Tartu, Estonia

The Facts:

• Start: Tallinn, Estonia
• Finish: Tartu, Estonia
• Travel Time: 3 hours 40 min
• Transport: Car
• Main Costs: Dinner €30

The Highlights

Attractions:

Kissing Students Fountain, Angel Bridge, Devil’s Bridge, and Tartu Cathedral

Travel Tip:

Always pack an umbrella and a good jacket, they’re worth their weight in gold if you get stuck in a downpour

Highlights Gallery:

Russell’s Overview

I woke up this morning another year old and perhaps another year wiser but I was very ok with celebrating my birthday in Estonia! I couldn’t have asked for a better birthday present than having the opportunity to road trip through the Baltics with the missus.

Before packing up the car and leaving Tallinn we had one outstanding objective still to complete, to use our Tallinn Cards on the red bus tour around the city. We made sure we’d checked (and yes, double checked the timetable the night before) so no issues in the morning. We boarded the bus, took our seats up top and explored the city from another perspective.

One of the benefits of taking a bus tour after exploring on foot is the ability to know where you are and the context of where you’re exploring. Oh we’ve been there but didn’t know we were so close to XYZ was oft repeated phrase. One of the highlights was that the bus went down some residential streets to it was really interesting to see how Estonians lived and not just seeing the downtown tourist areas.

Following the bus tour, we checked out of the hotel, loaded up the car, and hit the road with our eyes on the southern city of Tartu. Tartu is Estonia’s second largest city and is best thought of the country’s intellectual centre, primarily due to being the home of the University of Tartu.

The drive from Tallinn took just over 3 and a half hours and was made easier by a combination of podcasts and playlists. And yes, my podcasts were all tech-related (This Week in Google and This Week in Android) and Roma’s playlists included Adele and perhaps even a little Britney Spears…

We stayed at Villa Margaretha, a large vintage art nouveau hotel complete with claw-foot bathtub, king size sleigh bed, and old school mini bar. It was very cool and felt a little bit like stepping back in time.

We dropped the bags off and headed off into town to explore…and yes it rained for the majority of the exploration too!

One of my favourite things about exploring Tartu was that there was a lot to explore all within a relatively short walking distance. We started our exploration of Tartu at the most well known statue in the entire city, the Kissing Student fountain located outside the City Government building in Raekoja Square.

What’s not to love about this fountain? Not only is it the most popular meeting spot in all of Tartu, it’s also fun, romantic, and all kinds of charming. Definitely stop by for a couple of photos.

From the fountain, take a walk up Lossi St and visit the iconic Angel Bridge (Inglisild), a beautiful ornate bridge with a wonderful Latin phrase etched into its side; Otium reficit vires which translates to Rest replenishes Strength.

Now that you’ve seen The Angel Bridge, you’re going to want to see the Devil’s Bridge, right? We did too! Keep walking up Lossi St and you will see it, it’s a little hard to miss. The Devil’s Bridge (Kuradisild) is a dark, almost ominous-looking bridge which was built on the 300th anniversary of the Romanov Dynasty in 1913.

Fun fact: The name of the bridge isn’t actually inspired from a religious theme but rather because the chief engineer’s name was Werner Zoege von Manteuffeli, and the name Teufel means Devil. Go figure.

Once you’ve taken some time to enjoy the Devil’s Bridge, turnaround and head back the way you came and then turn left at Lossi St and you will come to what might have been my favourite part of Tartu, visiting Tartu Cathedral and the surrounding parkland.

Tartu Cathedral is one of the true landmarks of Tartu, a wonderful 14th century church ruin overlooking the city. Part of the ruined church has been renovated and houses a University of Tartu museum (formerly the library).

This is a site where you can literally walk throuh history, walk between the age-old architecture, touch the walls of the cathedral which has stood for over 700 years. As an Aussie, this place just blew my mind because there is nothing like this back home so being able to amongst this history and was truly amazing.

After exploring the city we sought shelter from the rain at Pizzeria La Dolce Vita and had a great meal and a couple of beers. The total price for a pizza, a pasta, and 2 beers came in at around €30 so not the cheapest meal but after walking around in the rain it was totally worth it!

To Be Continued:

We continue (and conclude) our road trip through the Baltics with our next post; Days 7 through to 10…

Next Week: A Road Trip through the Baltics: Days 7-10